Cheese is as central to French cultural pride as is the liquid bounty from the vineyards. With more than 1,000 varieties, French fromage crosses all socioeconomic divides, from broke park-bench lovers to high-life-loving degustation-menu gourmands. Part of the charm of real French cheese is the use of raw, unpasteurized milk (pasteurization carpet-bombs flavors, yielding an innocuous yet safe product). But the United States has banned any raw-milk cheese that hasn’t been aged at least 60 days, so to try those,…