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John Becker is the chef de cuisine at the Progress, the highly anticipated follow-up to San Francisco’s groundbreaking restaurant State Bird Provisions. Opened last December in a former theater on Fillmore Street, the Progress expands on State Bird’s “American dim sum” concept: At the Progress—which is also owned by the chefs Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski—each course is ordered by the entire table and served banquet style, like a dinner party. The menu is a collab…