Curd Appeal

Meet poutine, the calorically endowed antithesis to a salad. This simple French-Canadian dish, whose name means “mess,” was reportedly created by chef Fernand Lachance in Warwick, Quebec, during the late 1950s. It starts with thick, hand-cut fries (classically fried in lard, of course), which are topped with white cheddar cheese curds and smothered in gravy. The resulting gluttony-inducing pile of warm, creamy, chewy, squeaky, crispy, melty foodstuffs yields something between nachos, an amply dressed baked pot…

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